Kearsarge Pinnacles

The mountains surrounding Kearsarge Lake were a favourite of Ansel Adams.

Outback

After crossing Kearsarge Pass, we camp at Kearsarge Lakes in Kings Canyon National Park.
Photo of our REI Half Dome 2 tent for two, assembled in less than three minutes.
Madeleine and I fall into our various routines : she connects the tent polls and together we build the tent; I blow up the sleeping mattresses and fire up the Jetboil to to heat water for dinner. Never a complaint from either of us. It's a fun thing.

Mt University Sunrise

I stumble from my tent at 5AM to walk a mile to Mount University and Gilbert Lake, 10,500 feet. Madeleine tempted to join me the evening before but unmovable at such an early hour. I stumble along the trail with a headlamp and my carmera, feeling like a kid again.  The two photos about 30 minutes apart.

A Place Of Remarkable Beauty

Photo taken on the switchback to camp two on the Whitney Trail. The pictured mountain presents a drop of perhaps 2,000 feet.  This is the photograph I have chosen for my office wall.

A New Attitude

Mount Whitney Trail

We camp at Outpost Camp (10,300 feet) on the Mount Whitney Trail in the Inyo National Forrest.

Mirror Lake near Bighorn Meadow. The prior day lightening storms passed through creating dangerous conditions in the mountains. We experience rain and hail that lasts for 12 hours testing our gear.

Intrepid hiker. 

2017 was a record winter for snow in the Sierras and the snow pack ensures the rivers are over-flowing, the forests green and the wildflowers plentiful.

First Look

Driving into the mountains from Lone Pine.

Behind the first range is Mount Whitney which, at 14,505 feet, is the highest mountain in the contiguous US. It is also a popular summit because it is accessible during the summer season to hikers without climbing equipment.  Whitney is famous for its 97 switch-backs from base-camp to the near-summit. The entrance to the trail, eventually connecting to the JMT, is at the Whitney Portal or 8.2k feet.

At the Whitney Portal store we meet the proprietor Doug who is a committed communist with a PhD from Berkeley. We have lively conversation on Karl Marx and JMK as well as Berkeley in the 1960s, "a golden time", he notes. Doug gives me a book on George Mallory, no charge, and asks me to mail it when done. He also convinces me not to take my snow axes, purchased the day before for 1 REI, and offers to mail them to my parent's house, again for free (still awaiting arrival).

Practice Day II: Ruby Lake

Our second day in the Sierras begins at Mosquito Flat, the highest trailhead in the Sierras at c.12k feet. From the start, the grade is around 7% for the first 2 miles, before kicking up to over 12% at the start of the switchbacks (near Ruby Lake, pictured), for about 1.4 miles. We encounter first minor snow on the trail which nonetheless requires spikes.

First Trail

I begin my transformation to the trail on a practise hike to Gem Lake from the Silver Lake trail head, or about eight miles out-and-back. Gem is our first experience with switch-backs, which causes asthma and nose bleeds for Madeleine but rewards with a beautiful view of an alpine lake and waterfall. Our backpacks are heavy and awkward and we struggle with pressure points on our shoulders, back and hips.

LA And Out

Madeleine decides to have her hair corn-rowed for expediency on the trail (no washing?). We find a salon in East LA that caters to the style.

We find a Wahacan restaurant in Korea-town of all places while renting a car.

I originally planned bus transportation from LA to Lone Pine, a desert town located on the Eastern side of the Sierras but was convinced otherwise by Adam. Instead, we drive the 3-4 hours to Mammoth (7,900 feet) to begin our adjustment to altitude and continue our preparations.

Lone Pine btw is a central location for Hollywood Westerns from the 1950s with over 100 films shot here and in the surrounding mountains.

LA II

Relaxing before the adventure.
Eitan recovers from his ACL tear and so unable to do the JMT with me as planned, post-GCSE and sweet 16 years of age. Madeleine fills the void without hesitation: she is 'all in', no coaxing nor suggestion from me. I sense she feels an opportunity to escape the shadows of her older brother.

We try our 65 litre Gregory back-packs for the first time: filled with food and equipment, each weighs about 25 kg. We shed unnecessary clothes, field books and accessories to drop the weight. Whatever goes in, goes in on our backs.
Our team includes Adam (clothing, poles and sleeping system), Peter (back pack and hydration); Ken (emergency extraction); Moe and Grace (food; Bay Area pre-JMT base camp) and Christian (LA pre-JMT base camp). Also included is Sonnet, who helps make the whole thing happen with her encouragement, patience and planning assistance. Without her it would have been nowhere.

Los Angeles

Christian meets me and Madeleine at LAX.

Christian and Lisa 'hosted' our equipment in their garage for six months as I notch my checklist from Patagonia and REI. 

So freely did I spend at REI that I created a useful currency unit: 1 REI equals $500. 

JMT Pre Planning

Guy and food for 24 days.

On Guy and the John Muir Trail: He completed the JMT in 2003 with his son Jacobus and wrote a book about the experience, pictured. Guy opened my mind to the idea of the adventure, which I have been thinking about for ten years and planning for about a year. Prior to the trip he provides advise and share some notes; Jeanine gives me a zip-bag of homeotherapies covering spider bites to altitude sickness.

Guy is as close a thing to Yosemite Sam as I will ever know. He is inspiring.

Photos From The Summer I

Jasper and last morning, pre departure.

ACL Repair

Eitan pre-ops

Eitan is in good hands with Dr Bell, who specialises in knee surgery and has repaired over 1000 ACLs. While it is a serious procedure - Eitan will be under anaesthetics - it is also a routine practice.

Dr Bell reports that the surgery was "completely straightforward". The boy will remain in hospital for one night and home tomorrow.

Sonnet is with him this week.

Go'n To Buffalo

Madeleine receives her final instructions from Sonnet (somehow the dog is always in these moments). She catches a mid-day plane to Toronto with her 60L Gregory Pack stuffed for Buffalo and the JMT (I have gotten to calling her backpack "the house' as in 'you're going to be living in it for the next six weeks').

Madeleine for her part is used to the long-haul flights. She and Eitan went together sans us from Denver to London via JFK when they were 12 and 13.

On the other side will be uncle Marcus to greet her.

Tomorrow she begins her volunteer work the community garden.

The Crew BBQ

Madeleine has some friends over on a lovely Saturday evening. They are all laughter and politeness but we know what's really going on. Sonnet and I weren't born yesterday.

Emily and Lawton are with us for several nights, returning from Munich and other stops in Europe.

Both head for their freshman year at UNC in autumn and full of excitement and admissions stories (enough to freak out Sonnet). Their father, Brad, is the Vice Chancellor of Campus Enterprises and I suggest to Emily and Lawton that they should expect good service (eye roll please, but too polite).

The kids picked up for their flight 5AM Friday which does not stop them from seeing friends until 3AM Friday morning (now it is my/ Sonnet's turn to roll eyes).

I take the dog for a 3 hour hike in Richmond Park which otherwise takes c.60 minutes running and 30 minutes on a bike. Countdown JMT.

Cool Yuf

Bella and Lola hang out with Johnny Depp, Katy Perry and Lady Gaga in el lay.

Madeleine and I watch the women's 400m finals of the British Athletics Team Trials on the BBC.
Madeleine: "Why are they crying?"
Me: "It's emotional. Women cry."
Madeleine: "Great Dad."
Me: "How the heck should I know ? They're your age. You're a runner. And they're women. So you tell me: Why are they crying?"
Madeleine: "It's emotional. Women cry."

Portobello Market

Our first years in London, in Maida Vale W9, a Saturday morning routine included friends (or solo) at Lisboa, a Portuguese bakery on Golborne Road, for coffee, followed by the Portobello market and a search for groovy purchases (me, chords and the occasional age-inappropriate jacket; Sonnet, silver or household items).

On the Kensal Town side, Portobello is a flea market on steroids - stalls selling ancient tools, books, ceramics, table ware, junk - and a colourful neighbourhood that is still working class though seriously gentrified since we first came here (Look over there! (Where?) Here comes Jeanie with her new boyfriend).

The road connects into Notting Hill and becomes densely crowded with high and very-high end shops where one may find Rolexes and antiques. I bought my Yashika Mat dual lens box camera here which is now in Madeleine's room; it is a marvelous camera but the medium format film renders it impractical.

Eitan (in the crowded market): "What's my budget?"
Me: "Well, how much money do you have?"
Eitan: "I thought you were going to give us some money."
Me: "Tell you what. You say 'I love you Dad' and I will give you twenty pounds."
Eitan:
Me: "Easy money. 'I love you Dad.'"
Eitan: "I am not going to say that here."
Me: "Ok no money."
Eitan, whispering: "I love you Dad."
Me, loudly: "What ? Can't here you."
Eitan: "I love you Dad."
Me: "Here's twenty pounds."
Madeleine: "I love you Dad!"

LA Cousins

Erno Goldfinger lives on

Brook, Sonnet's cousin from Silver's side, joins us for five days on the way to a wedding in Greece. With her are Bella and Lola, second cousins to Eitan and Madeleine, and almost exactly the same age.

The crew otherwise live the California dream, not far from the Pacific, and the girls surf the Pacific waves. The kids instantly comfortable with each other and settle into a marathon of Harry Potter movies. Madeleine was to join them this summer but instead will hike the JMT.

From where I sit, they could not be more cool.