Goodbyes And The Cosa Nostra
We go to the beach one last time before heading to Pescara and the airport.
On the ride, Roberto and I talk about Italy's Mafia which, he notes, replaces the government in Italy's south where people do not otherwise pay taxes. Instead, they pay the cosa nostra. The amount depends on the size of your business or income and, failure to comply, may result in violence or loss of possession or destruction of one's house. People pay and live in fear. The Mafia's stronghold Naples while they control everything from Rome to Sicily -- Italy's south compares to the third world so young men go to Milano bringing their ways with them. I ask how one joins the mafia which, according to Roberto, rakes €90 billion from the economy. "One does not join unless you offer something the Mafia needs. You have to be violent, a member may kill over 100 men in his lifetime. No, it is the family. You are born into the Mafia and taken care of. Then you give back." Burlesconi is from the south and connected to la familia - he is useful and allowed to control the media but, says Roberto, this is changing with the Internet. "People do not understand but the are learning. Unfortunately Italy does not have an opposition party." The next election is in three years - "maybe." As for the church: "they control the largest private bank in Italy (the Vatican owns aprox. one-third of Rome's property and, of course, enjoys its own jurisdiction). The Vatican is protected. They do business with the Mafia. They are in bed together -- it is how the Mafia survives."
Despite it all, Roberto is optimistic. He notes Italy's middle is free from the Mafia and this is a main reason he lives in Tortoreto. He hopes that things will change "perhaps it will take as little as a generation" but he does not seem himself convinced. We wave "arrivederci!" I hope our paths cross again.
Madeleine brings her cork-man to the beach, which she made last night at the dinner table with the wine cork and toothpicks.
Madeleine: "Do you like him more, or less, with a hat?"
Me: "With." (she puts a bottle cap on its head)
Madeleine: "You know it is actually more fun to make something without spending money."
Me: "Since when? Like yesterday?"
Madeleine, indignantly: "No."
Me: "But you love to spend your dough. It burns a hole in your pocket."
Madeleine: "Well, not all the time. It's hard not so spend your money when you're at a place you have never been before."
Me: "On what?"
Madeleine: "Souvenirs" (she gives me a look like I am crazy for not knowing)
