Saturday, September 23
Friday, September 22
Mather Pass
We hike out of the South Fork basin to Mather Pass, where Madeleine re-fractures her collar bone scrambling up the mountain where the switch-back has been washed out.
Stephen Mather (1867-1930) began his working life, after graduating from the University of California at Berkeley, as a reporter for the New York Sun. Later, he worked for the same company in which his father held a senior position: the Pacific Coast Borax Company.
Just before the turn of the century he left the PCBC and, with a partner, began his own borax company. They did well.
By 1914, at age 47, he was a millionaire, had retired from the borax business, and was indulging his passions for the outdoors. That same year he toured Sequoia and Yosemite National Parks and came away unimpressed with the upkeep and administration of the properties. It just so happened that the current Secretary of the Interior was an old classmate, so he fired off a letter of complaint. The Interior Secretary’s response would change history.
“Dear Steve: If you don’t like the way the national parks are run, why don’t you come on down to Washington and run them yourself.”
Within two years Congress had approved the establishment of the National Park Service, and Mather was its first director.
Stephen Mather (1867-1930) began his working life, after graduating from the University of California at Berkeley, as a reporter for the New York Sun. Later, he worked for the same company in which his father held a senior position: the Pacific Coast Borax Company.
Just before the turn of the century he left the PCBC and, with a partner, began his own borax company. They did well.
By 1914, at age 47, he was a millionaire, had retired from the borax business, and was indulging his passions for the outdoors. That same year he toured Sequoia and Yosemite National Parks and came away unimpressed with the upkeep and administration of the properties. It just so happened that the current Secretary of the Interior was an old classmate, so he fired off a letter of complaint. The Interior Secretary’s response would change history.
“Dear Steve: If you don’t like the way the national parks are run, why don’t you come on down to Washington and run them yourself.”
Within two years Congress had approved the establishment of the National Park Service, and Mather was its first director.
at 16:51
Wednesday, September 20
Painted Lady - Rae Lakes
Every turn of the trail presents something new and somehow more wondrous.
at 16:26
Monday, September 18
Kings Canyon South Fork
At the Kings Canyon South Fork, five or six days before we reach the river, two hikers are pulled under the water and unable to escape their backpacks which hold them under until they are drowned. A path is created parallel to the river to avoid the crossing and sends us upstream two miles until it is safe to forge our way.
at 18:24
Madeleine Crosses
Unlike Madeleine, I do not have sandals so my hiking boots are soaked, adding unwanted weight. There are a few things I would do differently - footwear for stream and water crossings being on the top of the list. Candy and salty foods the other. By now, we are horribly sick of our rations, which I packed thinking : healthy. Instead of dried apricots, honey drops and freeze dried packets, I would stuff the bear canisters with candy bars and cheese, salty salami and smoked oysters. Crackers. Anything to get away from buffalo jerky and cranberries.
at 17:50
Sunday, September 17
Another Day Of Hiking
We meet Bret and Brent, who deliver food to us on mule at Bubbs Creek. Real cowboys they are, who live on the range in the summertime (Bret fixes water systems in the winter). Good sense of humour, nice trail stories. Bret fishes a bunch of trout which we relish (I've already lost a few pounds). We meet a couple gals from Ohio who inform that they decided to hike the JMT on a drunk-pledge to each other while at a college party in Columbus. As both recently graduated, seems like a fun thing for them to do.
at 17:37
Outback
After crossing Kearsarge Pass, we camp at Kearsarge Lakes in Kings Canyon National Park.
Photo of our REI Half Dome 2 tent for two, assembled in less than three minutes.
Madeleine and I fall into our various routines : she connects the tent polls and together we build the tent; I blow up the sleeping mattresses and fire up the Jetboil to to heat water for dinner. Never a complaint from either of us. It's a fun thing.
Photo of our REI Half Dome 2 tent for two, assembled in less than three minutes.
Madeleine and I fall into our various routines : she connects the tent polls and together we build the tent; I blow up the sleeping mattresses and fire up the Jetboil to to heat water for dinner. Never a complaint from either of us. It's a fun thing.
at 11:24
Saturday, September 16
Mt University Sunrise
at 12:01
A Place Of Remarkable Beauty
Photo taken on the switchback to camp two on the Whitney Trail. The pictured mountain presents a drop of perhaps 2,000 feet. This is the photograph I have chosen for my office wall.
at 11:55
Wednesday, September 13
Mount Whitney Trail
We camp at Outpost Camp (10,300 feet) on the Mount Whitney Trail in the Inyo National Forrest.
Mirror Lake near Bighorn Meadow. The prior day lightening storms passed through creating dangerous conditions in the mountains. We experience rain and hail that lasts for 12 hours testing our gear.
Intrepid hiker.
2017 was a record winter for snow in the Sierras and the snow pack ensures the rivers are over-flowing, the forests green and the wildflowers plentiful.
at 16:43
Sunday, September 10
First Look
Behind the first range is Mount Whitney which, at 14,505 feet, is the highest mountain in the contiguous US. It is also a popular summit because it is accessible during the summer season to hikers without climbing equipment. Whitney is famous for its 97 switch-backs from base-camp to the near-summit. The entrance to the trail, eventually connecting to the JMT, is at the Whitney Portal or 8.2k feet.
At the Whitney Portal store we meet the proprietor Doug who is a committed communist with a PhD from Berkeley. We have lively conversation on Karl Marx and JMK as well as Berkeley in the 1960s, "a golden time", he notes. Doug gives me a book on George Mallory, no charge, and asks me to mail it when done. He also convinces me not to take my snow axes, purchased the day before for 1 REI, and offers to mail them to my parent's house, again for free (still awaiting arrival).
at 10:55
Practice Day II: Ruby Lake
Our second day in the Sierras begins at Mosquito Flat, the highest trailhead in the Sierras at c.12k feet. From the start, the grade is around 7% for the first 2 miles, before kicking up to over 12% at the start of the switchbacks (near Ruby Lake, pictured), for about 1.4 miles. We encounter first minor snow on the trail which nonetheless requires spikes.
at 10:32
First Trail
at 10:22
LA And Out
Madeleine decides to have her hair corn-rowed for expediency on the trail (no washing?). We find a salon in East LA that caters to the style.
We find a Wahacan restaurant in Korea-town of all places while renting a car.
I originally planned bus transportation from LA to Lone Pine, a desert town located on the Eastern side of the Sierras but was convinced otherwise by Adam. Instead, we drive the 3-4 hours to Mammoth (7,900 feet) to begin our adjustment to altitude and continue our preparations.
Lone Pine btw is a central location for Hollywood Westerns from the 1950s with over 100 films shot here and in the surrounding mountains.
at 10:08
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